Now the road climbs steeply over Mortehoe point and to Ilfracombe. Anyone doing this route on this road need not be in a hurry. Even though shown as a two lane road between Croyde and Ilfracombe it is in reality twenty miles of tortuous single road
with lots of passing places, except in summer when the passing places become car parks.
Ilfracombe was a pleasant surprise. 20 years ago when I walked the coast path I was glad to get out of the place, it looked tired, drab and decayed. Now it sparkles.
Rejuvenation has happened. If you don't want beaches but do want a bustling holiday resort with pleasant theatres, nice boat trips, beautiful gardens and interesting winding streets this place can grow on you.
The buildings of the jubilee theatre is
interesting. They can either look terribly modern and arty, or, as they did to me, a cluster of miniature power plant cooling towers. Still, I'm an historian, not an architect.